tides coming in to tickle your toes


spent all morning trying
to get the papaya down
hear the ocean calling
better put it all down
don't even know
it was something like
the way you move

won't you girl undress me
lick the salt from the dripping sea
girl you're going to comfort me
girl you're going to comfort me

Creed
This is my surf board
There are many like it
But this one is mine
My surf board is my best friend
It is my life
I must master it
As I must master my life

when I reflect on what happened out there. The loss of control, the happiness, the fatigue, the triumph. The infinitesimal feeling of surfacing an abyss with all due repect. I am left dumbfounded, exhilarated and astonished... every single time.
AFTER EVERY
SURF

rock star rock

the wonderful wait

out past horizons

here comes the sets

here comes the sets

skill set don't matter

logos don't matter

fins don't matter

here they come

somehow in all the places

in all the situations

you chose to surf